Pokhara, Nepal: At least the rat should be happy

Pokhara, or Pokhara base camp, like the gore tex gang likes to call it, was a similar exprerience to the Indian town of Leh. I had massive expectations which were not met. I was hoping to see a Nepali town but instead I ended up in a tourist ghetto, albeit a friendly one.

Yet the only reason for the masses of tourists to go there is to leave it to go trekking.

For that it's perfect. There are a zillion cheapish banana pancake restaurants, traveller's agents and a few expensive restaurants which offer free wi-fi, which is a better option to the overpriced internet places if you happen to have a lap top with you.

These are my do's for Pokhara.

1. Do test your legs hiking up to the Peace Pagoda. The views to the Phewa Tal lake are well worth it. Visit Devis Fall if it happens to be on your way up or down from the Pagoda. Unless you are in Pokhara during the monsoon, the waterfall, which strangely enough disappears to the ground, is not worth the long walk from Lakeside.

2. Stay in Lakeside North. The price of accomodation descends steeply once you move North from the central area (from 500 rs to 200 rs) and it's not that long a walk. I particularly liked the Bishnu guest house. The rooms are clean, there's always hot water and you can help yourself to the bar if the owners are not around. Just remember to sign your purchase into the book.

3. In case you really feel like shopping but your backpack is already close to bursting, do let them do your laundry in the Banana Garden Lodge. That will help you shed extra weight. I got my fleece back missing a sleave (in the pic). Apparently it ended up in a rat's nest. The manager of the guest house gave me a replacement which was neither clean, nor light. Needless to say, the ill fitting fleece also broke all records in fleece ugliness. To be fair I should add that the manager was truly sorry for my loss, apologized so that in the end he made smile and now I feel bad about even mentioning the incident. It was not their fault and I'm a terrible prick.

4. There is a piece of real Nepal you can witness visiting the Bhindya Basini temple. When I went, a load of chickens had just been sacrificed in the shrine dedicated to Kali and the ground was soaked with blood, still steaming.

5. Try the buffalo momos at Lumbini restaurant - they probably are the most delicious meet filled momos in the world. But don't go there if you are really hungry - at best it takes them an hour to get the food on your table. The momos are worth the wait though.

6. Stroll around the old town of Pokhara. It gives you an idea what Pokhara was like before the gore tex gang made it there base camp.

7. Most importantly, prepare yourself to be nestled in a tourist ghetto. If you come to Pokhara with the right attitude, it's a great place to chill for a few days before hitting the trail. Enjoy the pizza. Enjoy the apple pies. Enjoy the two for the price of one cocktails at happy hour in any of the bars. "Sex on the lake" at Chilly's was really nice!